Wednesday, April 14th, 2010
A simple breakfast (a bit too simple, I'm in serious need of calories) with my friend then I'm back on the road. First stop is a local restaurant for a früstück (breakfast) with black bread, pork, eggs, cheese, and a big Milchkaffee. After that I feel like order has been restored has been restored to the universe.
In this country I am a ghost. I only get confirmation that I'm not invisible when I purchase something, then at least people are forced to recognize my existence. East Germany is not a friendly place. I see people on the bike paths all day long but they invariably just ignore me when I say hello. I've grown used to the surliness after being here for a year, but to be honest I'm not going to miss this country when I'm gone.
I find a pension in a small village near the Neisse to spend the night. The inn is kept by a friendly (gasp!) lady and her mushroom-hunting husband. The walls are covered with pictures of him cradling impressive amounts of Pfefferlinge (chanterelle mushrooms). They are tasty. The only other guest is a surly man who glares at me when I walk by. Now that's the East Germany that I know. The innkeeper aranges for me to have dinner at a neighbor's house who apparently cooks for tourists from time to time. The food is simple but hearty and copious, exactly what I needed after a long-day's ride.