Monday, April 26th, 2010
I have a long chat with the pension owners over a copious breakfast. They have 5 grown children and are now retired except for running the inn. They tell me about a Norwegian woman who came through on a bicycle headed for Istanbul.
Today's riding is a lot more interesting than the past few days, the paths are climbing as I get closer to Schwarzwald (Black Forest). The river runs through cliffs and the occasional quaint village or imposing castle along the banks. In the afternoon I reach the source of the Danube. From there it is flat-out climbing over the Black Forest mountains. The grades are just ridiculous in spots, and I'm riding on dirt paths for a lot of it. It gets cold at elevation. At the top of one of the mountains I am treated to a fabulous sunset. With darkness and cold closing in I find a Gästhaus for 32 euros, spend another 25 on an excellent dinner with portions made for a hungry cyclist. The chef is an interesting character who wants to hear about my travels.