Chiayi to Alishan: Let the serious climbing begin


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Statistics for today
Distance 63.00 kms 39.15 miles
Ride time (hours) 5.52 -
Avg speed 11.4 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 778.20 kms 483.43 miles
Ride time (hours) 38.08 -
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2016

Here's were the fun starts. From Chiayi to Alishan it's 60-something kilometers with 2100 meters of elevation gain. Since we're taking back roads (with their vicious grades) most of the way it will be a roller coaster, probably well over 2500 meters of actual climbing.

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The bikes had their own garage last night.

Breakfast is not bad. Not quite the all-you-can-eat orgy of gluttony provided by last night's 5-star hotel but we won't be starting the day hungry. The hotel is a bit goofy, they've tried so hard to make it hip that they've overshot the mark. Nice people though, and the food is good, so roll with it.

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Chiayi reservoir.
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Fresco on the wall in front of a temple on route 159.
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A big bag of this fruit for about $1.50 US. Orangey-flavoured with the consistency of something like jícama.

It doesn't take long for the hard climbing to begin. While we're still under a thousand meters it's quite hot as well. Just like I've experienced around Taipei, the less-traveled mountain roads have brutal grades. If there are not trucks you know it's going to be good.

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Summit of the first climb. Nice map but can't understand the captions.

After topping the first climb we're in roller coaster mode for the rest of route 159, with the trend definitely on the up. We wind around cliffs, mountain sides that line a deep river gorge, sometimes with looping switchbacks and sometimes with straight-up climbs of 15 and even 20 percent.

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Road is quite narrow, one at a time.
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Tea farm.
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Pretty sure this is betel nut. We stopped at this building to ask for water. The guys working inside were certainly big nut chewers with red, rotting teeth and that partially frozen expression I've noticed on long-time users.
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Not a leaf out of place.
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Lunch was a disappointment. "Sopa de cáncer" as Victor calls it. It did the trick though.
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Can't get away from them, even in the mountains of Taiwan. Election day is today.
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Can't get away from them, even in tiny villages buried in the mountains of Taiwan. Today is election day in the States.
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Bamboo forests.

Our love affair with route 159 mercifully comes to an end when it runs into route 18, a well-traveled and therefore much more humanely graded road that we will be following all the way to Alishan. We are running out of daylight though.

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The rows of mountains look like shadows in the haze.
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The sun soon to be setting but we've got a ways to go.
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Jade Mountain in the distance.
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Must have been quite a chore to put that bridge together on the side of the cliff.
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We're getting close to 2,000 meters elevation, it's cold, the sun goes down, it get's colder. We break out the lights. Still no sign of Alishan. Victor bonks, he flags down a truck. I can't blame him, today is a bit much for a first tour. The two guys in the truck help us load the bikes and we spend the last 4 or 5 kilometers sitting on bags of rice in the flatbed staring up at the stars through the pine trees. They drop us at a kind of toll booth at the entrance to the Alishan park. We ride through an unoccupied gate but the guards yell at us to come back and pay. $300 NT, no freebies or discounts for cyclists. We find the hotel but they don't have my reservation...a moment of terror...then it turns out it's the hotel next door that I booked but the on-line service sent me the wrong confirmation. We drop our stuff, shower, stuff our faces at a restaurant, then blissful sleep. Long frickin' day.

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This was a culinary adventure: a "hot pot" filled with deer meat, vegetables, tofu, and a bunch of other unknown stuff. There's a burner built right into the table, you stir it a bit while it's cooking then attack. I had to ask the waitress if she thought it was done before digging in.