Friday, December 16th, 2016
Time to get off the island and make progress south. Unfortunately I've got a long stretch of highway to grind out before I can get off towards the coast while still making progress. I end up in Pakmeng beach for the night where I'm treated to another amazing sunset.
Pack up and go, no breakfast at the hotel, I stop at a French bakery which is quite pathetic despite being run by actual French people. I send back my rubbery croque-monsieur twice to get it warm enough to eat. After that it's a hot ride back up the island to the ferry. A French woman pulls up beside me on her scooter (with her two kids, one in front, one in back). She says she lives on an "eco-farm", married to a Thai man, been here for 10 years.
I shoot the breeze with a guy on the ferry. He wants to know all about where I've been in Thailand. He's a Koh-Lanta native, lived there his whole life, says he hates to leave the island but he has to for work.
I get onto the back roads as soon as I can, heading for a beach. I get a place where they inexplicably upgrade me to a nicer room. No complaints. I drop my stuff and head for the beach. The tide is too low for a swim but the view is fantastic. I'm treated to an exceptional sunset.
I have dinner at a restaurant on the beach but I can't really enjoy it because I get massacred by mosquitos. I suspected I was in trouble when the waitress brought out a mosquito coil as soon as I sat down...