Show Low to Magdalena: Long day in the saddle


Albuquerque ultralight
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Statistics for today
Distance 281.00 kms 174.61 miles
Climbed 2,317 meters 7,602 feet
Ride time (hours) 10.47 -
Avg speed 26.7 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 588.00 kms 365.37 miles
Climbed 8,227 meters 26,991 feet
Ride time (hours) 25.06 -
On this page

Thursday, August 15th, 2019

My motel has free breakfast, and there's no one else in the room when I show up so I have no shame in stuffing my face with waffles, fruit, yoghurt, muffins, and cereal. I do some damage...

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Ugh. First flat tire of the trip.

I had plans on speeding to Springerville on a tailwind but a tack makes my rear tire explode with a pop just 5 miles out of Show Low. I skid to a stop and petulantly flip the bike upside down to change the tube.

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Still lots of wildflowers up here. Surprising to see; everything near Tucson has long since been burned off by the summer heat.
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Rolling hills with a few steepish climbs, big sky, not much traffic. Other than the flat tire the ride to Springerville is pretty enjoyable.

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Near Springerville there's a storm to the south generating lightning strikes.

As I roll into Springerville I've got storms to my south and storms to my north. I stop at a gas station to fill up on water. As I leave it's raining...I ponder staying to wait it out but decide to risk it. I get a little bit wet heading out of town but it doesn't last long enough to get miserable. I end up splitting these storms right down the middle; I can see where it's pouring to the north and to the south but the worst of the rain never reaches me.

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Quin cavall més bonic
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A new state.

It's a long ride between Springerville and Quemado, about 50 miles with no services. The New Mexico state line comes and goes.

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I'm starving when I finally roll into Quemado. A young guy on the side of the road gives me a high-five. I stop at a store/gas station for cookies, a Pepsi, and a Snickers. I've got about a hundred miles already invested in this day. I'm wondering if I can make Socorro...probably not unless I want to ride really late at night. My other options ahead are Datil and Magdalena but I'm not sure if they have any accomodations. Probably not in Datil.

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I remember Pie Town! I stopped here when I cycled from Boston to San Diego in 2011.

I stop for a coffee in Pie Town, at the same place where I had a piece of pie when I came through here in 2011. I recognize the owner. He asks me what I'm up to and gives me the coffee for free. He says Magdalena has a couple of motels so that is sounding like a better option. His wife says "go for Socorro, it's a full moon!", but I'm suspecting that I'll be ready to quit long before that. At least the road will be mostly downhill from here.

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Coffee stop.
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Parts of Pie Town look a bit grim.
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Rainbow!
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Elk!
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More elk!
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Aww...

I stop in Datil for water and something to eat. There are a bunch of people here on classic motorcycles. I chat with a guy on an old Triumph for a bit as I scarf down a pack of turkey slices.

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The Plains of St Augustin
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Quintessential New Mexico sky.
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The VLA (Very Large Array). A collection of radio telescopes scanning the universe. They are mounted on rails so that they can be reconfigured.
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Hint of another rainbow.
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Paging Jodie Foster...your hamburger is ready for pickup at the counter.
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I catch the sunset on the Plains of St Augustin. I shouldn't be dallying but I can't resist stopping to take lots of pictures of the radio telescopes against the backdrop of the setting sun. It's a beautiful place.

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As I roll off the plains darkness has set in. I break out all the lights; I'm lit up like a Christmas tree. The full moon comes up over the mountains. I'm really tired at this point. I just need to keep cranking the pedals for another few miles...

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And to top it off I am treated to a full moon rising over the mountains to the east.
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I ride the last 25 miles in the dark. Those twinkling orange lights in the distance are Magdalena...it feels like it takes forever to reach them.

I stop at a motel in Magdalena. I'm done. The owner says there are two options for food: 1) there's a microwave in the room and a Family Dollar down the street where I could buy something to cook or 2) a bar across the street that serves "pizza" (her quotes). Her description of the bar makes it clear I won't be having a lovely culinary experience. I'm too tired to go the Family Dollar route, and a microwave meal doesn't sound terribly exciting at this point. I opt for the bar. As soon as I sit down on a stool I'm accosted by an extremely drunk man. He keeps trying to talk to me and shake my hand but I can't understand a word he's saying. Eventually I understand that he wants me to drink Tequila with him. No thanks. When my frozen pizza is ready the bartender shoos him away. "Let the guy eat", she says, "he just cycled here from Show Low." The pizza sucks but there's a lot of it and I shovel it down. Back at the motel I collapse in exhaustion. I think 175 miles is the farthest I have ever ridden a bicycle in a day.

Strava ride data