Globe to Show Low: Salt River Canyon


Albuquerque ultralight
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Statistics for today
Distance 140.00 kms 86.99 miles
Climbed 2,953 meters 9,688 feet
Ride time (hours) 7.25 -
Avg speed 19.3 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 307.00 kms 190.76 miles
Climbed 5,910 meters 19,390 feet
Ride time (hours) 14.60 -
On this page

Wednesday, August 14th, 2019

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Last night's dessert. It was orgasmic.

First order of business: breakfast. It's a short walk down the street to Denny's where I wolf down my Grand Slam. Another hot one today - no surprise there - but it should be more bearable given that I'm gaining some elevation. I don't get on the road until about 10am. From Globe I will be on route 60/77 all day until I get to Show Low.

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Prickly pear gone wild.
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Calories for the road. I might need them today.
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On the road (route 60/77) towards Show Low.
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The Salt River Canyon. It will be a long descent followed by a long climb back out.

I came down this road from the north when I cycled from Boston to San Diego in 2011. I vividly remember the Salt River Canyon and how surprised I was to stumble upon this magnificent ravine. I camped at the bottom and was treated to a beautiful sunset over the red cliffs. This was one of the great advantages of traveling fully loaded: when I was tired or just found a place I like I could just throw up the tent and spend the night. Not so with this ultralight setup; I need to get to Show Low by hook or by crook.

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The bridge over the Salt River.
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It's running a lot lower than the last time I was here. No fishing in that murky water.

I remembered this road as fairly easy (other than the climb out of the canyon), but of course I was going down hill.

Now I'm realizing that it's a bitch of a climb. I started the day with 3.5 liters but it's all gone not long after the canyon. The only thing on the map is a gas station at the junction of 60 and 73. I end up riding the last 15 miles with no liquids. A parched experience that I can't recommend. At the mini-mart I drown myself with a huge fountain drink and some bottles of Dasani.

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Now for the climb out.
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Water is everything in this climate. I ran out 15 miles ago before I found this gas station. It's the only place between Globe and Show Low that I saw that has water.
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Sunflowers line the road.
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Late in the afternoon any trace of the desert has long since given way to the meadows and Ponderosa pine trees of an alpine ecosystem. The climbing hasn't let up - it looks like I'm having another big day in terms of meters climbed - but it doesn't feel as difficult as yesterday given the lower temperatures of the higher altitudes.

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Some storms lurking in the distance but they never came close to me.
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A touch of Utah.
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Ponderosa Pine country.
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How Show Low got its name.
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There was some sweating going on today.

I find a motel in Show Low, drop my stuff, and head to the pharmacy next door. I feel too tired to deal with a restaurant. The pharmacy is having a sale on Stouffer's macaroni and cheese: 3 for 10 dollars. I jump on it; plus I add some trail mix and a box of cheddar goldfish. Back at the motel I microwave the mac & cheese boxes in quick succesion, but I realize I've got no utensil with me. I fashion a sort of scoop out of the goldfish box using my knife. It's not pretty but it's effective in shoveling the food into my mouth. Ahh the glamour of bicycle travel...

I ended the day with almost the exact amout of elevation gain as yesterday, but in about 15 less miles. Before I go to bed one of my legs starts cramping badly. Probably a result of running out of water for that 15 mile stretch... I must be pretty dehydrated. I bought a pack of Rolaids at the pharmacy anticipating that this might happening. I scarf down half the roll which quickly relieves the cramps. I resolve to be more careful with the water situation tomorrow...

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